Amy's Global Mobilities

Given how many Christmas markets I've visited in the past two weeks, I admit to being slightly frightened by the attack in Strasbourg. I have received numerous alerts from the US embassy since I've been here, most of them in the last two weeks. My attitude about possible terrorist attacks while I travel is cavalier. I found Eric after I turned forty, and I was told I had a greater chance of being killed in a terrorist attack than of meeting a life partner! Seriously, though, I am  careful in busy places, but life is full or risks. If its not one thing, it's another. Today I was in The Hague, a few blocks from numerous embassies and the Peace Palace, home of the International Court of Justice.   I was facing (what else?) a museum. Suddenly, I heard shooting in front of me and to the right. I also saw smoke. I noticed a man with a gun and two boys briskly walking away from him. WALKING. It took a moment for that to sink in. Obviously, it was not a real fire...

I have been avoiding posting about part of my trip to Cologne, Germany, last week - my visit to the DOK museum in the former Gestapo headquarters. It would have been difficult at any time, let alone during Hanukah. Prisoners were kept in the basement; they weren't all Jewish. Some were Communists or members of the resistance. Above, you see the hallway to the torture chamber and a cell. Sometimes up to 30 people were crammed into a cell. To the left, you see a sample of the graffiti on the wall, in this case, a calendar. The exhibit is personalized with videos and tape recordings of people who were incarcerated as well as with pictures and signs documenting their stories. The events truly - and horribly - come to life. To educate children so this never happens again, the museum has a pedagogical center and an entire room dedicated to Hitler Youth and the way young people followed along. These images are chilling as well, partly because they contain so many, many ch...

When I left for Cologne yesterday, the moon and a star were still in the sky:  I have a cozy hotel room with a nice fireplace: Until a few weeks ago, I didn't realize that Cologne was home to multiple Christmas markets. I have now visited two and invested in various treats - as well as more spices - to take home. I'm wondering how mustard will travel . . . Yesterday I had flammkuchen for lunch at the market; today's lunch was not as happy. I had potato pancakes washed down with gluhwein, and one of them did not agree with me (dinner is a lovely, dry sourdough rye roll). Believe it or not, these are made of chocolate: Someone I love dearly who adores tools and is not on social media is getting some pliers! I saw some of Roman Cologne (hope to see more tomorrow): And, of course, I also went to the famous Cologne cathedral: I have no talent for arranging these, as you can see. No visit to Europe is complete wit...

Today I discovered Jacob Hooy, a spice and herb shop that began in 1723. You can still order your goods from the wooden drawers labeled in Latin, and they are scooped into small paper bags for you. No doubt the spices originally came from Dutch colonies. Now they travel from many places, and the shop also sells homeopathic remedies, essential oils, and similar items, as well as the ubiquitous cannabis products. I bought whole nutmegs and cinnamon sticks, though I may return for star anise and juniper berries. Working on my Dutch stew recipe!

The Mauritshuis in the Hague is my favorite museum outside my research interests. It's in a former mansion next to the Dutch parliament. In my opinion, it's a "must," and far better than the obligatory visit to Amsterdam's Rijksmuseum if you want to see paintings of the "Golden" Age. The crowds are smaller, too. The Mauritshuis is a jewel box, containing Vermeer's Girl with the Pearl Earring (as well as another Vermeer), Fabritius's Gold Finch, numerous Rembrandt paintings, as well as pieces by Hals, Van Dyck, Rubens, and other famous Dutch painters. It has a temporary exhibition space, but whatever is shown there is inevitably overshadowed by the works in the permanent collection. Here's an interesting Rembrandt of two "Moors." It's not usually seen.

Every Saturday when I go to the market, I give myself a short lecture about buying an appropriate amount for one person. It never works! Today, a knot of fresh tagliatelle turned into a large handful of artichoke and cheese ravioli; a small bunch of tulips was joined by a giant bunch of coral/yellow roses; a roll turned into a loaf of sourdough bread laced with walnuts; five bite sized pieces of smoked mozzarella were augmented by a thick slice of Dutch cheese with cumin seeds. And then there were the mushrooms, spinach, and smoked garlic, the stop for apple tart with cream, accompanied by fresh mint tea! At a time when the earth is dark - and not only because winter is descending - I treasure the bounty of earth and its humans. I offer a picture of one of the few products I didn't buy: carefully dyed linen in muted colors, a veritable rainbow!The painting below it is one I saw yesterday at the Mauritshuis in the Hague; it's a Van Ruysdael of bleached linen drying in a fiel...

Eric and I treat ourselves to one really fine restaurant on each of our trips to Amsterdam. This year, I selected an Italian enoteca that was on the list of ten best restaurants in the city. I had to make the reservation before I left home a month ago.  Last week we traveled across town to arrive at the restaurant in time for our reservation. "Mi dispiace, signora" (I'm sorry, or it displeases me), says the owner, but he does not have our reservation. My face falls. We came all the way across town, and I looked forward this for weeks. Ah, I think as I pull out my phone to show the reservation  confirmation. He looks at it, sniffs, and says, "but that was last night." Evidently, after I entered the reservation, Outlook changed the time zone, and the reservation moved to the next day. The owner looked at me sadly, mystified or perhaps grieving that someone would squander an opportunity to dine at his fine restaurant. I look sadder and say "bouna sera"...